Organic Fertilizers

We recommend to dilute fertilizers more than directed (1/4 strength) and that they be used every week with watering. This way, instead of getting large doses of fertilizer all at once, they will get lower doses, but on a more balanced and regular routine. Try it, we are sure you will not be disappointed!

Before you throw out any of your tired looking plants, try an All-Organic plant food and see what a difference it makes. Below are some suggestions.

COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS

SEAMIX 3-2-2 This is a liquid extract of both kelp (seaweed) and fish protein.

SQUANTO'S SECRET 2-4-2 This is a liquid extract of fish protein.

NEPTUNE'S HARVEST LIQUID FISH PLANT FOOD 2-4-0.5 This is a liquid extract of fish protein.

NEPTUNE'S HARVEST FISH/SEAWEED BLEND PLANT FOOD 2-3-0.5 This is a liquid extract of fish protein and kelp.

NEPTUNE'S HARVEST SEAWEED PLANT FOOD 0-0.2-1 This is a seaweed supplement. SEACROP 0-0-1 This is a liquid extract of kelp (seaweed).

DO YOURSELF HOME MADE PRODUCTS

Here is a homemade product called Herbal Tea Plant Food. The formula is:
1 t Comfrey leaves
1 t Alfalfa leaves
1 t Nettle leaves
1 Qt boiling water

Steep for 10 min. and let cool until luke warm. Drain the leaves out and add the luke warm tea to your plants to keep them healthy and vibrant!

The reason for adding slightly warm tea (or water) to your plants is that they will be able to absorb the needed nutrients more easily by keeping the root pores open verses cold tea (or water) will have a tendency to restrict the pores, meaning a much slower process of absorption.

Comfrey is called knitbone or healing herb. It is high in calcium, potassium and phosphorus, and also rich in vitamins A and C. The nutrients present in comfrey actually assist in the healing process since it contains allantoin.

Alfalfa is one of the most powerful nitrogen-fixers of all the legumes. It is strong in iron and is a good source of phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and trace minerals.

Nettles are helpful to stimulate fermentation in compost or manure piles and this helps to break down other organic materials in your planting soil. The plant is said to contail carbonic acid and ammonia which may be the fermentation factor. Nettles are rich in iron and has as much protein as cottonseed meal.


OTHER ORGANIC MIXES

SOURCES AND LEVELS OF ORGANIC NITROGEN-PHOSPHORUS-POTASSIUM (N-P-K)

Nitrogen:
(For producing leaf growth and greener leaves)
Compost manure 0.5
Dried blood 12-15
Cottonseed meal 7
Cocoa bean and peanut shells 1
Bone meal 4
Weeds and grass clippings 0.9

Phosphorus:
(For proper seed development; hastens maturity; increased seed yield and flower production; fruit and vitamin content; increased resistance to winterkill and diseases)
Phosphate rock 30-32
Bone meal 21
Dried blood 3
Cottonseed meal 2.5

Potassium:
(For promoting early growth; improves stem strength and cold hardiness; better color, flavor and keeping quaility of fruits and vegitables; good for root system)
Potash, plant residues 0.5
Manures and compost 2.7
Granite dust 5
Greensand 5
Basalt rock; wood ashes 7
Hay 2
Leaves 0.6
Seaweed (kelp) 5

Organic Pest Control

When you use Organic pest control, remember that you are contributing to a healthier environment for everyone.

Before using any Organic Pest control always read the label first and follow the directions accordingly. Remember, just because you are using an Organic Pest control does not always mean that its non-toxic. So, read the label thoroughly.

Most common Organic Pest Control formulas:

Rotenone/Pyrethrin: This combination is a powerful insecticide. Rotenone is a contact and a stomach poison. Pyrethrin is made from the flower heads of Chrysanthemum cinerarifolium. Rotenone/Pyrethrin is effective against flies, roaches, aphids, fleas, thrips, white flies, scales, mites, squash bugs and cucumber beetles.

SunSpray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil: Sunspray primarily suffocates the insects and their eggs. It consists mainly of paraffin oil, making it a great organic insect control. It controls, aphids, hard and soft scale, mealy bugs, whitefly, spider mites, and thrips.

Organic pest control methods and diagnosis of common problems:

Aphids: Small green, gray, violet, red, yellow or brown insects that suck sap from the plant. Soft bodied and pear shaped, with long antennae and tubelike projections on the abdomen. Congregates on leaves and causes them to curl and pucker, eventually deform and stunt flowers and buds. Control by gently rubbing leaves between thumb and forefinger. Spray with non-detergent soap and water mix; tobacco tea; SunSpray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil; Rotenone/Pyrethrin.

Mealy bugs: Soft bodied insect. Most commonly look like cotton tufts. They suck sap from the plant stunting or killing it. Congregates on stems. Control by spraying the plant with a strong stream of water. Spray with non-detergent soap and water with a drop of alcohol mix; SunSpray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil.

Scales: Shell-like covering or scale that protects the entire body. Usually oval and color varies from white to black. They suck sap from the plant stunting or causing poor growth. They excrete droplets of a sweetish, sticky liquid called honeydew. Control by washing with non-detergent soap and water and while wet, rub off scales with a cloth; SunSpray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil; Rotenone/Pyrethrin; organic oil sprays.

Spider Mites: They appear as tiny white dots on the underside of the foliage. Leaves become discolored with tiny webs appearing on the surface. Warm, dry air favors their development. Control by using a water misting foliar spray to keep up the humidity level of the plant; hose off plant and wash away the web and mites; washing with non-detergent soap and water; SunSpray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil; Rotenone/Pyrethrins.

Whiteflies: These pests have white wedge-shaped wings. When plants are moved, the adults take flight usually from the upper leaves. They feed on the sap of the leaves, and they become pale, die or drop off. Control by using SunSpray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil; Rotenone/Pyrethrin.

Homemade formula for an Herbal Insect Spray:

You can make your own herbal insect repellent using your own favorate herbs that have insect repellent qualities. Just remember that if you are mixing your own concoction, use care and tenderness when using any herbs. If you are unsure of an herb, you can find infomation from a lot of sources; libraries; book stores; on-line; etc. Never use an herb that you are not familiar with.

1 oz. Wormwood (If Wormwood is not available, use Tansy)
1 oz. Lavender
1 oz. Sage

Place these herbs in 1 qt. jar. Fill the jar with boiling water and let set until cool. Drain and set liquid herb solution aside.
2 c Water
1 t Castille Soap or Murphy's oil Soap
1/8 c Liquid herb solution

This can be sprayed on plants with a spray bottle or using a cotton cloth, it can be wiped on the plant. Used as an aromatic organic pest and disease controler.

Homemade formula for an Organic Cleaning Spray:

You might want to use a cleaning spray for when your plants are dusty and dirty, or when they look like they just need a pick-me-up. We found that the most time our interior plants needed to be cleaned is in the winter. There's a lot more dust in the house at this time from heating systems; wood stoves; forced hot air ducts; and others that really stur up the dust. Keeping your plants clean will help prevent diseases and insect infestations. We use this formula because of it's gentleness and most importantly because it doesn't contain any harmful chemicals or detergents that might harm the plants. Again warm water is used so that the pores of the plant can absorb the spray easier.

1/4 T Liquid non-detergent soap (Castile Soap; Murphy's oil Soap)
1 Qt. Luke warm water
1/4 t Liquid seaweed

Apply liberally with a spray bottle and wipe off with clean cloth.

Lawn Care

EARLY APRIL:

1. As soon as the ground has dried out thoroughly (do not walk on wet or frozen lawns to avoid compacting), you can "roll the lawn" to flatten any frost heaves. Pass a one-third filled lawn roller over the lawn area.

2. Spring is an acceptable time to "aerate" the lawn. To alleviate the problems of soil compacting there are two approaches. You can punch holes Into the lawn at regular intervals with a spike aerator even a garden fork. Perhaps better, you can buy a hand held coring tool or rent a power coring aerator which cut out plugs of soil and grass. Rake up the corings and compost. You can also fill the open holes with raked in sand or compost.

3. Edging around planted beds, pathways, etc. Is both aesthetic and functional. Use a half-moon edger to cut a clean line around these non-grass areas (to reduce grass infestation) and mulch the plant beds afterwards.

4. Any time a Soil test (always recommended) Indicates a soil pH below 6.7 it is time to lime. Use a ground limestone spread with a drop spreader at about 50 pounds per 1000 per sq. feet and test again in the fall.

5. Whether or not to do a spring fertilization depends on the needs of your lawn grass types and how vigorously you want the lawn to grow. A lush, thick lawn is your best defense against lawn pests and weeds. A spring fertilization can be a higher nitrogen organic amendment like composted sewage sludge, a high nitrogen, blended organic fertilizer, or your own mix including rock minerals and a nitrogen source such as blood meal, Cottonseed meal, finely shredded compost or dried manure. DO NOT OVER FERTILIZE, a little of an organic fertilizer goes a long way and too much nitrogen can create problems. Follow recommended rates for lawn fertilization very carefully or plan to fertilize at about one pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet (i.e., 20 pounds of a 5-5-5 organic blend).

DO NOT RAKE UP LAWN CLIPPINGS. They do not lead to thatch and can supply one half of your lawn's nitrogen needs. If you can tolerate white clover in your lawn you may be able to avoid nitrogen fertilizing altogether.

Liquid seaweed, while not essential, has been shown to have very beneficial effects on lawns such as a reduction in harmful nematodes and fusarium blight, greener healthier lawns and greater tolerance of extremes. Apply in early spring to green up the lawn at one pint per 1000 square feet.

6. Mowing and trimming begins as soon as some of the grass has grown an inch above your desired grass height, You should AVOID CUTTING OFF MORE THAN ONE INCH OF GRASS BLADE AT ONE TIME to reduce stress, and to MOW LIGHTLY AND MOW OFTEN. USE ONLY SHARP MOWER BLADES to reduce Injury and fungus problems to grass plants.

A thick, healthy vigorous lawn and a higher than recommended mowing height are two of the best, non-herbicidal controls for unwanted weeds. The height of the cutting blades on your mower should be no less than three inches; higher is even better (most mowers won't allow it). This helps to shade out low growing weeds like crabgrass that need light to germinate.

7. Control of dandelion weeds is a difficult task, even with chemical herbicides. If you cannot live with them, there are a few non-chemical alternatives. Keep your soil pH at 7. Hand digging of four to five inches of dandelion roots In early spring immediately after the plant leafs out, even though you have not removed all of the root, is 80%-100% effective In eliminating dandelions. Simply defoliating leaves with a sharp hoe each time the plant leafs out (about six times a season) was shown to be 92% effective in eliminating dandelions.

LATE MAY:

1. Continue mowing and trimming whenever lawns grow an inch.

2. Begin to monitor the lawn for chinch bugs by drenching the soil with a soap solution. Significant populations of these (20 per square foot) may result in death to whole areas of the lawn. Control by drenching affected areas with insecticidal soap mixed with some Isopropyl alcohol (1T/gal).

3. Begin monitoring for fungus diseases in the lawn. Learn to Identify signs of fungus damage. Older varieties of bluegrasses, tall fescues and perennial ryegrasses seem particularly susceptible. Usually, conditions favoring fungus growth will change in time and the fungus will recede. Otherwise, try raking, brushing or blowing the areas, or apply lime or Liquid seaweed. Eliminate watering and over seed with improved grass varieties.

JULY:

1. A second application of liquid seaweed now helps to increase tolerance to drought. It is both unnecessary and wasteful to water lawns. Northern lawn grasses simply go dormant, until the cooler, fall season. Once you start watering you are committed for the whole season, so do not start. Another strategy is to over seed your lawn with more drought tolerant grasses like fine fescues, turf-type tall fescues or perennial ryegrasses.

2. Begin monitoring for lawn grubs. These are the larvae of Japanese beetles, June beetles and other insects. Populations of 10-15 grubs per square foot is fine, approaching 10O per square foot and your lawn is in danger. Long term control may be improved with an application of Milky Spore disease IF APPLIED BEFORE A SIX WEEK PERIOD OF HOT WEATHER. Use insecticidal soap or predatory nematodes for short term control. If lawn grubs kill off sections of your lawn, turn it over every few days to let the birds consume the larvae and reseed in the fall. Healthy, organic lawns are not bothered as much by lawn Insects, but monitoring Is recommended.

MID-AUGUST:

1. A third application of liquid seaweed just before the heavy fall growth period seems to improve lawn health and cold tolerance.

2. Beginning now and until mid-to-late September Is the season for preparing and seeding new lawns, for reseeding bare or damaged lawn areas and for over seeding existing lawns with new lawn seed varieties to thicken growth, to improve vigor, to resist pest and heavy use problems and to reduce maintenance. To over seed a lawn, rake it hard with a steel rake or rent a power rake or slice seeder to slice into the lawn a quarter inch or so. Spread the improved varieties and water in. Keep moist until germination.

SEPTEMBER:

1. Examine your lawn for thatch buildup. Thatch is the layer of stolons and roots which builds up in over fertilized and improperly watered lawns; especially in bent grass or bluegrass lawns. It is seldom a problem In organic lawns because of the healthy earthworm population and the gradual fertilization, and some thatch acts as a mulch. If the thatch layer is more than one-quarter to one-half inch, break it up with a strong raking, with a steel rake or rent a power dethatcher. A power dethatcher will make the lawn look a mess, but the lawn will recover quickly if it is healthy. If your lawn Is heavily trod upon and compacted, another aeration may be necessary.

2. This is the best time of year to lime and fertilize the lawn (although a spring application of fertilizer is also good for a high quality lawn). Lime is applied as above. Organic fertilizers applied In the fall, because of their long-lasting, slow release characteristics, can continue feeding the soil and plants for an entire season. Use organic fertilizers with a good supply of potassium and phosphorus - both very Important for that vital fall root growth that leads to a healthy lawn In the spring. Use slow release nitrogen sources rather than high nitrogen fertilizers.

3. Continue mowing until the grass stops growing, whenever that may be. The final mowing of the season should leave the grass at about a two Inch height to reduce the likelihood of winter fungus problems.

OCTOBER AND NOVEMBER:

Remove and compost leaves from the lawn as soon and as often as they accumulate. Never allow a layer of leaves to smother a lawn for any long period of time. The lawn should be left clean and open for the winter.

WINTER MONTHS:

Relax